See notes below:
As an alternative to Free-viewing (described in articles below), OWL viewers available HERE
at the LSC Shop
- along with other stereo products and cards.

More help HERE:

Owl and folder


**Sat 13 Mar 04**

This is how I waste my time when there's really so much to be done ... I hide away and work in Photoshop ...


For those of you who are familiar with "Magic eye" pictures, viewing this will not pose a problem. The trick is to view this pair of images from a foot or so away, and look "through" the screen to infinity, allowing the two images to float across each other. Where the two central pictures exactly overlap, you can gently adjust the FOCUS only of your eyes (not the convergence) to fuse the images into a single Three-Dimensional image. This technique is called "Free Viewing" of stereo pairs. In this case I took a "HyperStereo" by clicking at each end of my hotel windows - so I got two images taken from positions about 20 feet apart. The resulting 3-D image looks as if we are a giant with eyes 20 feet apart; the city - Red Square, etc., - looks like a tiny model, with every detail exaggerated in depth... this has always been a passion for me .... I get a similar thrill from images as from music.... hope you enjoy this.

(P.S. - If "free viewing" doesn't work, and you REALLY want to see this in stereo - you can print out the pair (size about 7 inches across the combined image, and put it in one of those Victorian stereo viewers if you have one lying around ... or make one out of a couple of old spectacle lenses.... if you guys are interested in stereo there's a LOT we can talk about!!! )

Love bri .

**Mon 21 Jun 04**

There's a whole world of TAKING stereo photo's of our own. Basically most of the rules of normal photography apply, (except anything to do with composition! ) plus some new ones concerned mainly with interocular distance (the separation of the two camera lenses - I guess the old stereo photographers regarded the lenses as 'virtual eyes' in a sense).

I can't detail it all here ... I'll have to see if I can find a good book to recommend ... but maybe we can deal with a few tips as they come up.

The standard way to take a stereo picture with an ordinary 'mono' camera - which can of course be digital too - is to take one picture of the scene as normal, and then move the camera two and a half inches (about 6 cm - the distance between our two eyes) to one side and take another picture of the same scene. It's quite hard to be exact with all this, so people have adopted various techniques to do it accurately.

One simple technique is to stand with the weight of our body on the right foot and click the shutter, then transfer the weight on to the left foot and click again. The camera should be level, and kept pointing in pretty much the same direction. And of course its going to be a big help if the thing we are photographing is not moving! If there's a person in the field of view we have to ask him not to move a muscle between exposures. Obviously babies and animals are a challenge !!! When the pictures come out, they have to be placed side by side, accurately levelled and cropped, for the stereo to work properly, on paper, or on the computer screen. The way they are cropped at the sides will determine where the apparent "Stereo Window" is located in space - the aperture we are apparently looking through to see the scene recreated in three dimensions.

As far as composition - this is a fascinating area. My own favourite stereographer T.R. Williams produced many images which viewed in "mono" - without stereo viewing - look confused and uninteresting. But in the viewer, or 'free-viewed' they leap into fantastic depth, and reveal an awareness of composition in three dimensions instead of two which is quite thrilling ... Have fun !!